FRIDAY, OCTOBER 19
It felt like the second day of the beginning of a grand adventure.
A bus took us to the end of Princess Street. Then we walked up Queen’s Ferry Street through New Town, our destination The Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. It was cool and overcast, the sidewalks covered with freshly fallen leaves. We wandered into St. Mary’s Cathedral, admiring of the combination of old and bright new stained glass windows, and the couple having their wedding photos taken in the cavernous space.
The grayness of the city enveloped us as we came outside to empty streets and a light drizzle. Edinburgh, built of heavy stone, sits miraculously firmly on a rugged, rocky land of deep dips and ragged edges. The buildings on the way to the museum reminded me of wealthy Upper Park Avenue neighbourhoods in New York City, a bit scaled down, but still with the same stately opulence, grand rooms, high ceilings, and sense of secure confidence. Many windows revealed tasteful, massive flower arrangements and gorgeous chandeliers.
MODERN ONE
An Emil Nolde exhibition was featured at the first of the two National Modern Art Galleries. Entrance to special exhibitions required a fee so we decided first to see what was free. We watched a video about Nolde, that explored his life in Germany under Hitler. Labelled a degenerative artist like many others, he was not allowed to paint, his paints were confiscated and his work travelled in an exhibition of other “degenerative artists” meant to shame him and them. Nolde however, never gave up his support of the National Socialist Party. Honestly, I’ve never liked his work for that reason.
The small galleries on the ground floor had some amazing surrealism, Dada and printworks.
The end of one hallway was punctuated by a bronze Damien Hirst sculpture figured after Degas’ Ballerina but pregnant with her skin and body broken, muscle and fiber revealed, parts of her body fallen at her feet. A baby clung to the inside of her belly. Made in 2011, it represents Hirst’s response to the invasion of Iraq.
MODERN TWO
After visiting the Modern One, we walked across the street and the landscaped lawn with inviting low spiralling barricades to the second Modern. The collection was slightly quirky and all the more enchanting because of it. Our favorites were works by Francis Bacon, Scottish painters I’d never seen before, and one room with paintings from four contemporary artists, including a Trinadadian whose painting depicted a mythical stolen child; Nigerian artist Ofil, and a new artist to me, London-based Indian artist, Raqib Shaw.
Shaw’s work, featured in other rooms, were large, intricate enamel paintings with bizarre, and detailed “Indianized” recreations of masterworks, often with his dog front and center. He mocks colonial, western centric art.
LEITH WALKWAY AND DEAN’S VILLAGE
We rushed past a trove of beautiful paintings, Miro, Villiard, etc., on our way to the cafeteria for a quick lunch, then we headed outside to walk again. On our way back toward New Town along Belfort Road, we lucked into the Leith Walkway, which winds along the Leith River through a Gothic village, Dean’s Village, built in and around the stone cliffs. The village has cobbled, warren-like, often steep walkways connecting what feels like a life-sized, stone Hobbit village.
MEMORIES
A soft drizzle began again, following us along Queens Ferry Street toward New Town’s wide, commercial Queen Street with its many nice restaurants and businesses. Somehow we ended up in the park under the castle next to the most garish and wonderful Rocco, blue fountain.
On my first visit to Edinburgh when I was in my late 20s, I watched older couples waltzing one evening near this fountain. At the time, I was overcome by the most intense emotions…remembering my grandfather, who was of Scottish ancestry, and feeling a belonging I had never felt anywhere before.
CITY ART CENTRE AND THE FRUITMARKET GALLERY
The City Art Centre, near the train station and a hub of contemporary art, was our next stop. Two shows were on exhibit: a photography show of Scottish photographers through time; and a show covering 40 years of work exhibited in the “travelling gallery”, a van that travelled to cities and towns throughout Scotland showing contemporary Scottish artists. The “travelling gallery” retrospective covered two floors. Every type of work imaginable was included, from silly to political.
Across the street at The Fruitmarket Gallery, another art venue, which has a cafe, gallery, artists studios and a great gift shop, the gallery was closed for an installation but we were happy looking around the shop.
As can be imagined, we were exhausted as we headed back to New Town for dinner. We turned off the busy, pedestrian street, loud with people off work and drinking, where we found a small Japanese restaurant.
REALLY, THE THEATRE, TOO?
As if this weren’t enough for one day, we went to Cyrano de Bergerac at the Royal Lyceum back in Old Town. Maybe it was because we were so exhausted, but probably not, we found the show ridiculously silly, annoying and ultimately boring, and left as soon as we could get away.
It was a Friday night, and lots of drunken, jovial people were everywhere. Chloe called it “a party town.”
Clencher…we walked back to the apartment. It took nearly an hour, and as tired as we were it was relaxing once we hit London Road. Others were out walking as well, enjoying the lovely, mild October night.
I’d say we’re two crazy travel keeners.
