SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 18
Hard to believe this would be our last day in Paris.
LUNCH IN MONTMARTRE
We packed and cleaned in the morning, then took the train to Montmartre. Arriving at lunch time, we climbed our first set of stairs to reach a restaurant, Soul Kitchen, that was popular and packed. We decided that instead of waiting we’d eat across the street at what Chloe would call, “the local diner.” It was simple food and all locals. I had chicken with mashed potatoes and it had, hands down, the best sauce I’d tasted anywhere in Europe.
CATHEDRAL DE SACRED COUER
After lunch, more steps led us to the Cathedral de Sacred Couer, a massive church perched on the very top of Montmartre, the church we could see from our Airbnb apartment window. Two musicians played on one side of the cathedral – both were fantastic singers, Mickael Dedji and Yaya Minte. Many people were out on this clear, cold, sunny day and a crowd had formed at the entrance and along the perimeter of the open space surrounding the cathedral to gaze down at a panoramic view of Paris.
Immediately upon entering the church, we were in awe. The power, beauty, height, enormity, the repetition of stone arches, the dome that creates a vortex drawing you up and away to another reality, the fantastically intricate and delicate tiled murals, archways that create windows within the church, the deep blues and gold of overhead murals, the quiet, expansive, plain stone patches that serve to accentuate the beauty of the tiled murals. Every detail so perfect.
Though I know churches are meant to represent the power and wonder of God, I could not help but think of this structure as a testament to the wonder of humans, their ability to create. This massive stone building seems light weighted, lifting effortlessly skyward. Its center domemagically draw the building and the people inside toward the heavens.
PICASSO IN THE MUSEE D’ORSAY
From Montmartre we raced to the Musee D’Orsay to try and catch the Picasso show. Not much time but we made it! As luck would have it (and it seemed to be with us the whole time we were in Paris), we made it inside though there was a fairly long line and we didn’t have advance tickets. The show consisted of Picasso’s work from 1900-1903, the blue and rose period.
One of my favorites, “Boy with Horse” was include in the show and it was my first time seeing it. It was larger than I expected. Lifesized, and the color – well, Picasso’s colors never reproduce well. He’s a master – whether in green and blue, blue, or rose shades.
I once saw an exhibition that was organized around Picasso’s women, a premise I don’t like. We all know he was a misogynist, and there is no excuse for that, but Picasso’s work stands on its own. He is simply a creative and visual genius.
We left as the museum closed, came home and finished preparing to leave in the morning. So sad to be leaving.
WE LOVE PARIS
I love Paris – the deep appreciation for things fine – cheese and bread and art and the fullness of humanity. There is a recognizable admiration for all that is human from body to mind and all senses in between.
Next up Milan. Again staying on the city fringes and hoping for some modelling action there.
