FRIDAY, MAY 17
Our senses are overwhelmed. Dubrovnik is so beautiful, maybe the most beautiful city we’ve visited. But after all the emotions of Mostar, the contrast, even if beauty, makes us spin.
BUS RIDE FROM MOSTAR TO DUBROVNIK
From Mostar to Dubrovnik, the bus followed the Neretva River, passing spectacular mountain lakes edged by small communities, running into the ocean and skirting the coast. Chloe commented that it reminded her, in some ways, of the Sea to Sky highway between Vancouver and Whistler. There is a little spit of land, in Neum, where the jade-colored river meets the ocean. This area belongs to Bosnia-Herzegovina, their outlet to the sea. Croatia has most of the coast. It created a bit of havoc in our four-hour bus journey since we had to cross several borders.
DOBRODOSLI, DUBROVNIK
The city of Dubrovnik is smaller than I thought it would be. The size of the city is easily walkable, but (and this is a big but) it sits on very steep hills, so lots and lots of stairs and climbing. The hills encircle a water inlet; the city is built on either side. At one end of the semi-circle is the Old Town. We are staying near the bus station, in Gruz, and like most apartments and houses in Dubrovnik, our airbnb sits on a hill and offers a spectacular view of the ocean, islands and Dubrovnik itself. It feels like Greece and Italy combined.
Dubrovnik feels more mediterranean than Split did. People spend a lot of time on their balconies, flowers spilling from pots. They hang out at coffee shops, smoking and talking. Neighbors all seem to know each other. Children play in the narrow streets and stairs. Many cats, like in Split and Mostar, wander free and are cared for by everyone. The cats were brought to these cities to combat the rats who arrived on sailing vessels carrying diseases. Today, they are a feature and a reminder of the past and well cared for and loved.
OLD TOWN
Old Town, our first stop, was teaming with tourist, which we found disturbing. Strange for us to be surrounded by people on holiday. Traveling now feels like our lives and tourists feel like a disruption. These loud and garish strangers are an annoyance (which we will have to get used to now that summer approaches). Up until now, locals have welcomed us, treated us with curiosity. That is changing, a real shift for us to be clumped with others. At dinner, we sat next to two loud English couples traveling together and couldn’t help overhearing, and being taken over by, their conversation. Truth is, of course, they have as much a right to be visitors as we do. We are just spoiled.
Old Town Dubrovnik is hauntingly beautiful, ancient walled city with narrow, steep-passages. It glows from the Croatian white stones and its history. Like Venice, images appear like ghosts.
