SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 9
INTRODUCTIONS TO SKIBBEREEN
After feeding Olive’s animals, we left Saffi at home, and drove to Skibbereen, the closest mid-sized town, nearly 30 minutes away. Union Hall is closer but is very small with only one general store and a couple of pubs.
While Fiona drove, walked, shopped, whatever, she explained things to us…directions, best shops and restaurants, stories about places and people, and sites to see. In Skib (as the locals call it) we bought groceries at one store, learned the differences between two additional grocery stores (Aldis and Lidl) , were shown where to buy fresh fish, health food, the location of the weekend market, Mary’s salon, and more.
Fiona took another scenic route home. We stopped on a steep high hill above the sea. A couple had pulled over at the same time, and Fiona talked to them while Chloe and I walked up the hill to a fortress and one of our first 360-degree views of ocean and rolling fields.
AND CASTLETOWNSEND
The tour continued through Castletownsend. It was lunchtime when we got to Fiona’s though it felt like an entire day had passed.
AND WARREN STRAND
After lunch, Saffi was begrudgingly persuaded into the car where she sat next to Chloe, often with her head on Chloe’s lap, and off we went through windy, narrow, and often steep, roads past Glendore to Warren Strand, a huge stretch of pristine beach. The day was warm and clear. The air brilliantly fresh.
Fiona throws rocks for Saffi, and Saffi runs after them, maybe Saffi’s favorite game. But…she doesn’t bring the rocks back. Fiona says Saffi isn’t the smartest dog. Who needs a smart dog when she has such a big heart? Throwing rocks for dogs seems to be a thing in Ireland. Only occasionally do you see a dog owner with a ball.
AND GLENDORE
After a good long play and run, we left the beach, brought Saffi home, and returned to the Glendore Inn, a pub perched on the edge of a cliff, looking out toward Union Hall. I had my first Irish fish and chips and Guinness…lovely. Chloe had a vegan meal prepared just for her. h
Chloe and I were exhausted when we got back to Fiona’s but Fiona wanted to stay up. We watched one of her DVDs, The Button Wars, a film made many years ago near Union Hall.
Fiona has a spot on one of the two couches where she leans back, her legs stretched out, and Saffi, with her blanket on the ground, comfortably and safely sleeps under Fiona’s legs. I didn’t make it but 20 minutes into the movie when I said we needed to go to bed. I think Fiona was already sleeping on the couch.
