THURSDAY, DECEMBER 27
After Pilates class at 9:45, we returned to the apartment and were off on our daytrip to Toledo, a medieval city built by Moors, Jew and Christians beginning in 700 AD.
SUNNY TO FOG
The sky was sunny and cloudless during the first 45 minutes as we crossed flat, barren terrain between Coslada and Toledo. Big box-like stores selling sofas, building materials, cars, etc. zoomed by along the side of the highway. The landscape became greener, hilly with more trees, but we were soon buried in a dense fog.
THE MEDIEVAL WONDER
We parked north of the walled city, stopped in a local restaurant to ask for direction, and headed down a main street past a hospital built in the 1500s, through a park, by an ice-skating rink and lots of Christmas decorations. The fog lifted; the medieval wonder gripped the hillside, a city of brick and stone surrounded by a thick, stone wall. We entered the stone gate.
The dark narrow, streets reminded me of Venice though Toledo is hilly and steep in places. But like Venice, it was easy to get lost, not just directionally but in time. The stones smell old and dank, urine and body odors linger in passages, the light is dim brightening only when you emerge into communal squares.
We were in awe, admiring the Moorish, colored tiles, small roofed balconies, arched doorways, interior courtyards and ancient wood and iron doors.
THE CATHEDRAL AND EL GRECO’S HOME
We went inside many buildings and shops, the most impressive the Cathedral where we listened to an audio tour. The interior, golden chapels combined Gothic and Baroque; one wall was covered with a giant mural. There were gorgeous frescos by El Greco.
We also visited El Greco’s home, now a museum, imagining him walking the corridors, wandering through the orderly and large multi- level garden. It was interesting seeing El Greco’s paintings in the Prado, but much better in Toledo in the cathedral (an entire chapel room devoted to his works) and later at his home. Our intention was to visit the synagogue, too, but we got lost and it was closed by the time we arrived.
When we left the 1,500-year-old wall of stone and narrow bricks behind, it was dark. Chloe and I wondered what it would be like to live there, to grow up in the present day in the past, with the past, history so tangible. Locals seemed relaxed and happy. I dream of returning some day to a small apartment as a writer in resident. Just a dream.
Home to the cats, who spend their nights sleeping with me. When they sleep!
